maiolica jars
Feb. 14th, 2011 05:17 pmThe smaller one turned out quite well.
The Strutto jar is OK, but I think I will fire it again. I want better than OK.
You know, scribes, illuminators, and so many other artists complete something and it's done, no kilns that must be served and bowed down to.
The Strutto jar is OK, but I think I will fire it again. I want better than OK.
You know, scribes, illuminators, and so many other artists complete something and it's done, no kilns that must be served and bowed down to.
no subject
Date: 2011-02-19 07:16 pm (UTC)For the cone 6 I use the "Mastering Cone Six Glazes" by Roy & Hesselbreth. It is a great glaze, well designed. No pinholing or other problems, it has to be fired exactly at cone 6 though, as is true of most MC6 glazes.
I use Siebert recipe for maiolica for cone 04. I'm having some pinholing with that :-(
So strange, I did two jars, both thrown at the same time, bisqued at the same time, glazed at the same time with the exact same maiolica base (Siebert) and overglaze; then sat them right next to each other in the kiln when they were fired. One pitted, the other didn't.
Phenomenally annoying!
no subject
Date: 2011-02-20 12:47 am (UTC)I have the Seibert one and have tried it. I pour and the glaze has to be PERFECTLY even or else it looks phenomically like crapola. So, I have an airbrush now, which I haven't used. All this for STUPID maiolica. Yes, I am really angry over the amount of time and energy over 12 years (on and off) I have put into this ONE technique. Most SCA people have told me to just use commerical glazes, and I have refused... I just want to find a period way. You're the first person that at least mixes their own glaze. What colorants are you using? I've used stains with starch in them... per Seibert recommendation (I think). Websites... what did I do without them, I'll never know. Oh that's right, I read 40 year old books and cursed a lot.
no subject
Date: 2011-02-20 02:15 am (UTC)I've been painting on the maiolica base. I made some brushes, they are thick and pretty nice. There is some unevenness in application but I do my best to smooth it out with my fingers. Lots of dust which probably is bad to breathe.
For the overglazes I do use a number of commercial glazes and I haven't been picky about the brand name, some maiolica artists recommend a particular brand. But it's the base glaze that is always the problem, not the overglazes.
The overglazes I do make are 1/2 base glaze with oxides added. Sometimes more parts base and less oxide if I want a light blue or aqua. I have also used a couple of mason stains rather than the oxide. Some oxides, as you know, act as a flux.
no subject
Date: 2011-02-20 02:23 am (UTC)